A few days ago I took a research trip to London but couldn't resist taking up the opportunity to visit one of the magnitude of wonderful exhibitions that our great capital has to offer. One Exhibition was on at the Fashion Space gallery and was called 'Mad About the Boy'. It was an in depth look at fashions obsession with the young male.
The exhibition was an eclectic mixture of Photography and designers collections from current artists as well as this from the 70's, 80's and 90's. The way in which the Exhibition was played out allowed there to be sections exploring the connection between male youth and different aspects of life and the way in which fashion capitalises upon the developing relationship between the two.
Between Man and Child
This part of the exhibition explored the way in which youths are represented as being in a liminal position mentally as well as physically. Fashion focuses on the 'meaning' of growing up the freedom, insolence, man hood, the intangible factors. The exhibition explored the way in which fashion creates and celebrates this as a fetish (as such) with the in-betweens of male youth by juxtaposing meta manly models with chilling surroundings kitch outfits or vice versa.
In The Club
The Exhibition then went on to explore the content relationship that fashion highlights with the male youth and the club scene. The music and bands that they listen to the movement. The way in which designers almost obsessively revisit their youth through referencing their own experience of this. "All these grown men given huge resources to flex their adolescent fascinations"- Tim Blanks. The exhibition argued that the preconception of this culture is being maintained by fashions commitment to representing it in their collections.
In Eduction
School was documented as being huge contributor to fashion and the inspiration it gives to photographers and designers alike such as bonding, identity, routine and rules (to be broken?). The Exhibition explored to the huge extent at which uniform is referenced within menswear in particular however it was the more emotional aspects of school that inspire so many within the fashion world. Rights of passage such as the leavers shirts (Raf Simmons graffiti scrawled lab coats where presented in the centre of the exhibition)
Between Genders
Recently in particular Gender fluidity or androgyny has become a very largely spoken about part of peoples lives. However this exhibition explored the way fashion has always fetishised genderless dressing in editorials and collections alike. Masculine men juxtaposed with feminine tailoring or accessories or Feminine models in masculine situations and styling are something that has often been commented on as being liberating. The exhibition explored how the 'boys' ability to transform and adapt his identity within fashion is what is so seductive about this demographic.
As A Sexual Object
This part of the exhibition was particular interesting to me as it explored the inconsistencies within the fashion landscape. It was exploring how the overt sexualisation of young women is widely criticised however the same sexualisation of a male youth is not given the same level of scathing scrutiny. It explored how young boys are displayed as an object of desire (the boy next door, shy inexperienced) placed within sexual fantasies encouraging the female gaze. The exhibition explored the way that people are encouraged to enjoy the act of voyerism when looking at a male yet scathed for doing so when a female. Culturally I personally feel that this has to change, both genders should be treated with the same level of digression especially when age plays such a large component within the argument.
My Thoughts
I absolutely loved the exhibition, It was aesthetically beautiful as well as incredibly thought provoking. It was perfectly sized and you could just tell walking around that the curator/s must have been so enthusiastic about the contents. They had a very interesting system where you collected information as you went around and created your of 'pack'. This slight amount of interactivity helped connect your to the subject matter and really emerge yourself within the collections. It was truly thrilling and maybe just one of the best exhibitions I have been to in a long time.